TNT1, on 01 November 2011 - 11:11 , said:
Based on those pics, I'd suggest some lube.
That's what he said!
Edited by The Drongo, 01 November 2011 - 11:14 .
5
The great Chain/Cassette/Gears thread
Started by rckhpr29er, Nov 01 2011 08:53
29 replies to this topic
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#17
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Posted 01 November 2011 - 11:13
That's what he said!
NO NUBBINS ®
cockled or otherwise!
cockled or otherwise!
#18
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Posted 01 November 2011 - 12:06
Thanks all!
I think a trip to http://www.ifixit.com some lube and a bit of elbow should do the trick.
Happy riding everyone!
W.
I think a trip to http://www.ifixit.com some lube and a bit of elbow should do the trick.
Happy riding everyone!
W.
#19
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Posted 01 November 2011 - 05:26
Your cassette is stuffed. Especially gear number 7. This gear was obviously a favourite gear of whoever rode the bike the most.
However, the reason it started to perform badly is not because of chain and cassestte wear, but because of cable deterioration.
A chain and cassette mesh with each other right to the bitter end and as long as you keep the adjustments right, they will mesh, no matter the mileage.
You talk about "jumping" but this is not a useful term as it doesn't describe what happens when the chain disengages. A chain can disengage sideways, like in gear shifting or poor gear shifting, and it can disengage radially, as in skating over the teeth of the cassette.
The former happens when the adjustment is out. The latter happens when a chain has elongated past a point where it can engage with a sprocket that now has a different pitch than the chain.
The best way to see if you need a new chain is to measure it. Lots have been written about that here.
The best way to see if you need a new cassette is to fit a new chain and see how it performs under pressure. Lots have been written about that here too.
It gets quite complex but it is something everyone that hangs around in this forum should understand. Search for "Everything You Need to Know about Chains." There is a document on the topic.
However, the reason it started to perform badly is not because of chain and cassestte wear, but because of cable deterioration.
A chain and cassette mesh with each other right to the bitter end and as long as you keep the adjustments right, they will mesh, no matter the mileage.
You talk about "jumping" but this is not a useful term as it doesn't describe what happens when the chain disengages. A chain can disengage sideways, like in gear shifting or poor gear shifting, and it can disengage radially, as in skating over the teeth of the cassette.
The former happens when the adjustment is out. The latter happens when a chain has elongated past a point where it can engage with a sprocket that now has a different pitch than the chain.
The best way to see if you need a new chain is to measure it. Lots have been written about that here.
The best way to see if you need a new cassette is to fit a new chain and see how it performs under pressure. Lots have been written about that here too.
It gets quite complex but it is something everyone that hangs around in this forum should understand. Search for "Everything You Need to Know about Chains." There is a document on the topic.
www.yellowsaddle.co.za
I hope all you Mayans have a prescription for Prozac
I hope all you Mayans have a prescription for Prozac
#20
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Posted 01 November 2011 - 05:43
Johan Bornman, on 01 November 2011 - 05:26 , said:
It gets quite complex but it is something everyone that hangs around in this forum should understand. Search for "Everything You Need to Know about Chains." There is a document on the topic.
JB, can you be more specific? I did a search, and I see you referencing this "document", but I can't find the doc.
I'd like to merge a few of the more educational chain threads and sticky it, and I'd also like to include this.
The Most Awesome Thread On thehubsa.co.za 
+ Hope Solo
+ Hope Solo
#21
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Posted 02 November 2011 - 06:35
Everything you need to know about Bicycle Chains.pdf 102.21K
218 downloadsTNT1, on 01 November 2011 - 05:43 , said:
JB, can you be more specific? I did a search, and I see you referencing this "document", but I can't find the doc.
I'd like to merge a few of the more educational chain threads and sticky it, and I'd also like to include this.
I'd like to merge a few of the more educational chain threads and sticky it, and I'd also like to include this.
Everything you need to know about Bicycle Chains.pdf 102.21K
218 downloads
www.yellowsaddle.co.za
I hope all you Mayans have a prescription for Prozac
I hope all you Mayans have a prescription for Prozac
#22
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Posted 02 November 2011 - 08:24
Brilliant, many thanks for the document. Will definitely come in handy!
Johan Bornman, on 02 November 2011 - 06:35 , said:
#23
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Posted 02 November 2011 - 08:26
Right, I've changed the thread name, stickied it, and will merge into it relevant chain/gear related threads.
The Most Awesome Thread On thehubsa.co.za + Hope Solo
+ Hope Solo
#24
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Posted 02 November 2011 - 12:44
TNT1, on 02 November 2011 - 08:26 , said:
Right, I've changed the thread name, stickied it, and will merge into it relevant chain/gear related threads.
Thanks, what a good idea.
I'll appreciate some peer review on the document. Solid scrutiny can only improve it.
www.yellowsaddle.co.za
I hope all you Mayans have a prescription for Prozac
I hope all you Mayans have a prescription for Prozac
#25
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Posted 02 November 2011 - 12:58
umm, only spotted this thread now - have you considered cable stretch? Get your LBS (or you can do yourself) to check whether the cable is jumping because of cable stretch - adjuster there at the RD.
Edit: I see JB has that covered..... ciao
Edit: I see JB has that covered..... ciao
Edited by Tiny K, 02 November 2011 - 01:06 .
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#26
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Posted 02 November 2011 - 10:20
Okay so can't access the pdf from my bb just incase the answer lies within...
I'm having a shifting issue of my own.
Just built a new dual susser. Put new gear cables and had to add 2 links to my chain length.
Iv tweaked here and there but I still get a short shift round 8 + 9 and an over shift round 1 + 2. I've checked the hanger and that's straight. Nothing wrong derailer or shifters.
Anyone got some guidance please!
I'm having a shifting issue of my own.
Just built a new dual susser. Put new gear cables and had to add 2 links to my chain length.
Iv tweaked here and there but I still get a short shift round 8 + 9 and an over shift round 1 + 2. I've checked the hanger and that's straight. Nothing wrong derailer or shifters.
Anyone got some guidance please!
Check out my Affordable Helmet Cams
#27
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Posted 02 November 2011 - 10:53
Nic0000, on 02 November 2011 - 10:20 , said:
Okay so can't access the pdf from my bb just incase the answer lies within...
I'm having a shifting issue of my own.
Just built a new dual susser. Put new gear cables and had to add 2 links to my chain length.
Iv tweaked here and there but I still get a short shift round 8 + 9 and an over shift round 1 + 2. I've checked the hanger and that's straight. Nothing wrong derailer or shifters.
Anyone got some guidance please!
I'm having a shifting issue of my own.
Just built a new dual susser. Put new gear cables and had to add 2 links to my chain length.
Iv tweaked here and there but I still get a short shift round 8 + 9 and an over shift round 1 + 2. I've checked the hanger and that's straight. Nothing wrong derailer or shifters.
Anyone got some guidance please!
Three things you could check:
1) Is your cable housing long enough? A dual sus can have problem shifting if the suspension movement pulls cable housing that is too short.
2) Is your cable attached to the derailer correctly. Sometimes it's possible to clamp the cable in the wrong spot, which will lead to kak shifting.
3) Check for play in your cassette.
#28
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Posted 02 November 2011 - 11:00
Nic0000, on 02 November 2011 - 10:20 , said:
Okay so can't access the pdf from my bb just incase the answer lies within...
I'm having a shifting issue of my own.
Just built a new dual susser. Put new gear cables and had to add 2 links to my chain length.
Iv tweaked here and there but I still get a short shift round 8 + 9 and an over shift round 1 + 2. I've checked the hanger and that's straight. Nothing wrong derailer or shifters.
Anyone got some guidance please!
I'm having a shifting issue of my own.
Just built a new dual susser. Put new gear cables and had to add 2 links to my chain length.
Iv tweaked here and there but I still get a short shift round 8 + 9 and an over shift round 1 + 2. I've checked the hanger and that's straight. Nothing wrong derailer or shifters.
Anyone got some guidance please!
Hi if I understand correctly you cant get to the topmost sprocket? In that case you need to make sure that the limiters are setup correctly. Look for the limit screw marked L and turn this screw anticlockwise 1/8th turn then see if you can get to the topmost sprocket. Then possibly your cable tension is too high this is why it over shifts from 1 to 2, turn the adjustment knob at the shifter 1 to 2 clicks clockwise and try again.
Edited by MariusD, 02 November 2011 - 11:07 .
#29
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Posted 03 November 2011 - 08:10
Jules, on 02 November 2011 - 10:53 , said:
Three things you could check:
1) Is your cable housing long enough? A dual sus can have problem shifting if the suspension movement pulls cable housing that is too short.
2) Is your cable attached to the derailer correctly. Sometimes it's possible to clamp the cable in the wrong spot, which will lead to kak shifting.
3) Check for play in your cassette.
1) Is your cable housing long enough? A dual sus can have problem shifting if the suspension movement pulls cable housing that is too short.
2) Is your cable attached to the derailer correctly. Sometimes it's possible to clamp the cable in the wrong spot, which will lead to kak shifting.
3) Check for play in your cassette.
Okay I check cable setup, its connected correct, even compared to my other bike. No play in cassette either.
I think the housing length is fine but I have the problem while the bike is on the bench so no sus movement.
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#30
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Posted 07 January 2012 - 07:06
Got a similar prob - fitted a new chain today (road bike). No jumping, no climbing, nice crisp shifts. All well on the bike stand. But.. when I ride it there is a grating sound when the chain is in the small chainring, expecially when climbing. it dissapears in the big chain ring so not a BB issue (or a rear cassette issue??)
Any thoughts??
maybe I must just ride till the new chain matches the small 39 chainring.. or till the sucker snaps!
Any thoughts??
maybe I must just ride till the new chain matches the small 39 chainring.. or till the sucker snaps!
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